After the thrilling and tiring day at MP, an easier day was in order. After a lavish breakfast at Jack’s Cafe we visitied 2 small museums, The Museo Inka and The Museo de Machu Picchu, neither of which allow photographs. Along the way we visited the Stone of the 12 angles, a huge building block in a narrow street near the Cathedral. We ended the day at Pachapapa where there was a harp player doing Beatles covers.
Home tired and happy.
Machu Picchu is a truly amazing place, I cannot do it justice in a few words, nor can ANY photo come close to the grandeur. So I settle for the more mundane descriptions of our visit.
We arrived, as noted to the Sanctuary Lodge, and spent the day exploring the immediate grounds and had lovely meals. We went to bed early with the plan to awake early. We got up at 5AM and had breakfast at 530, and headed straight to MP, before the sun came up. We were among the 1st to get in, but there were still a substantial number of people there when the gates opened at 6. The climb up to the citadel is hard, steep steps and many switch backs. Though MP is a lot lower in altitude than Cusco, it is still pretty high. I was out of breath. We looked around for a short time, admiring the view. I went back down to meet our guide, Ronal, who then accompanied me back up the steep entrance (I was covered with sweat by then even though it was only about 60 degrees). We went through the ruins with our guide, learning much about the ruins. Went back to the hotel and had breakfast at 9:30AM and then headed back to the citadel.
There is a ancient long paved road from Cusco to MP called the Inca Trail, suffice to say it is very arduous. We decided to hike a ways up it, maybe 2 miles, though with a substantial gain in altitude, maybe 1000 feet. Then we came back down and went through the citadel again, finishing up about 4PM, headed back down the mountain, and boarded the train back to Cusco, arriving around 10PM. A truly unique and fulfilling experience that was worth every dollar we paid, drop of sweat, and aching thighs we possess.
We took the train from Cusco to the town of Machu Picchu and then the bus up a steep mountain road to the entrance of Machu Picchu. since we are staying at the Sanctuary Lodge, which is right next to the entrance, we did not go into the citadel. And instead enjoyed the grounds and gardens of the Lodge. had a lovely lunch and later an equally lovely d dinner. Tomorrow Machu Picchu at sunrise.
Cusco is a lovely, and large city nestled high up in the Andes. We awoke today and walked (slowly because of the altitude) to the Plaza de Armas, where we encountered a lot of riot police waiting for something to happend, soon a large band of marchers appeared and circled the plaza and chanted slogans. One of the locals told me they were teachers protested get government cuts to education.
We moved on to the Cathedral of Cusco, and visitied several small museums. Wrapped up with a lovely dinner.
Getting back on our feet, we visited the Pedro Osma Museum after a lunch of Cievche, later we went to the shopping mall again where they had a special display of indigenous crafts from all the states of Peru for sale, where Laura bought a new purse. We also went to the Amano Textile Musem before heading back. Stayed in for the evening which is fine. Tomorrow we head to the mountains, and Cusco.
Well, I guess it had to happen sooner or later, but your intrepid travelers were robbed last night. No one was hurt, except our pride and sense of trust. We were walking down a busy street, a street we had walked many times before over the last 6 days, when a taxi (that’s right, a clearly marked taxi) pulled over behind us. Two men in ski masks jumped out and grabbed Laura’s purse, sending her careening into me. We both ended up sprawled on the ground. The pendajos jumped back into their cab and sped away, leaving us a bit bruised and bewildered. Ten years of traveling together and this is the first time anything like this has happened.
We made it back to the apartment, with some help from neighbors, and assessed the situation. We lost about $20 in cash, credit cards (which were quickly canceled), and Laura’s Iphone, which was also quickly disabled. They didn’t get much for their effort.
To prove to ourselves we were OK, the next day we got back out and toddled around as normal. Bought Laura a new purse, and generally moved on. Lima is a good place, with many good honest people. What happened could have happend in any large city in the US. Sometimes bad shit happens, it’s what you do with it that matters. I for one am not going to let it stop me in an manner.
“No podemos estar seguros de tener algo por lo que vivir si no estamos dispuestos a morir por ello.” ~Che Guevara
Beginning a more ambitious day by going to the main square, the Plaza Mayor.
We arrived during the Changing of the Guard at the presidential palace, an elaborate affair. The weather was pleasant, with the typical Lima Garua, a light fog covering everything in the morning changing to hazy sun in the afternoon. Afterwards we headed to the Cathedral, for a walk through that included the Archbiship’s residence. We stopped for lunch off the plaza. Later in the evening had dinner at Amoramar, a well known cevicheria. Late night listening to Afroperuvian music at La Noche.
The first thing we did was to go to the Larco Museum which is the premier archeological museum of Andian cultures. We had a lovely lunch in the excellent cafe on the grounds. Afterwards we went to the Larcomar shopping mall, an exercise in sublime excess, with high end shops and expensive coffee and juice bars. There are guards at all entrances to keep out the riff raff. Back home for a siesta before venturing out again in the evening for dinner at Juanito Barranco, by far the coolest place I’ve been to so far, with lots of locals and lots of atmosphere. Much better than the high end toursita places we seemed to find before.
Kind of a lazy day. We got going late, and walked around the nearby park, which is sort of a town square. Got some coffe at a local place and caught Uber to a small modern art museum to look at the exhibition. Had brunch at another coffe shop and came back, after walking around that neighborhood. We had dinner at a place we stumbled on to called Isolina and had a lovely dinner of ribs in a stew of cilantro sauce with rice and beans, which was actually one of the less exotic dishes they had (see website and menu).
We decided to go to a nightclub called La Noche and saw a couple of local bands playing rock music. It was great but too loud for these abused ears. I will pay for it tomorrow.
The area in Lima near the ocean is dominated by a roaring sound that I could not place. It is not exactly the sound of ocean waves crashing, but it coincides with the waves breaking on the shore. It wasn’t until I got close to the edge of the water that a realized what it was…the sound of thousands of rocks being pushed and pulled by the waves. I made this video to try to capture the effect. Imagine it being loud enough to be heard from hundreds of feets away, mixed with the sound of the waves.
jeff reeder 